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第27章 LETTER:To I.P.D.(1)

AUDLEY END,October 14,1847

Dear Uncle:We are staying for a few days at Lord Braybrooke's place,one of the most magnificent in England;but before I say a word about it I must tell you of A.'s safe arrival and how happy Ihave been made by having him with me again....On Saturday the 9th we had the honor of dining with the LORD MAYOR to meet the Duke of Cambridge,a FETE so unlike anything else and accompanied by so many old and peculiar customs that I must describe it to you at full length.The Mansion House is in the heart of the CITY,and is very magnificent and spacious,the Egyptian Hall,as the dining-room is called,being one of the noblest apartments I have seen.The guests were about 250in number and were received by the Lady Mayoress SITTING.When dinner was announced,the Lord Mayor went out first,preceded by the sword-bearer and mace-bearer and all the insignia of office.Then came the Duke of Cambridge and the Lady Mayoress,then Mr.Bancroft and I together,which is the custom at these great civic feasts.We marched through the long gallery by the music of the band to the Egyptian Hall,where two raised seats like thrones were provided for the Lord Mayor and Mayoress at the head of the hall.On the right hand of the Lord Mayor sat the Duke of Cambridge in a COMMON CHAIR,for royalty yields entirely to the Mayor,on his own ground.On the right of the Duke of Cambridge sat the Mayoress-elect (for the present dignitaries go out of office on the 1st of November).On the left hand of the present Lady Mayoress sat the Lord Mayor-ELECT,then I came with my husband on my left hand in very conjugal style.

There were three tables the whole length of the hall,and that at which we were placed went across at the head.When we are placed,the herald stands behind the Lord Mayor and cries:"My Lords,Ladies,and Gentlemen,pray silence,for grace."Then the chaplain in his gown,goes behind the Lord Mayor and says grace.After the second course two large gold cups,nearly two feet high,are placed before the Mayor and Mayoress.The herald then cries with a loud voice:"His Royal Highness the Duke of Cambridge,the American Minister,the Lord Chief Baron,"etc.,etc.(enumerating about a dozen of the most distinguished guests),"and ladies and gentlemen all,the Lord Mayor and Lady Mayoress do bid you most heartily welcome and invite you to drink in a loving cup."Whereupon the Mayor and Mayoress rise and each turn to their next neighbor,who take off the cover while they drink.After my right-hand neighbor,the Lord Mayor-elect,had put on the cover,he turns to me and says,"Please take off the cover,"which I do and hold it while he drinks;then I replace the cover and turn round to Mr.Bancroft,who rises and performs the same office for me while I drink;then he turns to his next neighbor,who takes off the cover for him.I have not felt so solemn since I stood up to be married as when Mr.Bancroft and Iwere standing up alone together,the rest of the company looking on,I with this great heavy gold cup in my hand,so heavy that I could scarcely lift it to my mouth with both hands,and he with the cover before me,with rather a mischievous expression in his face.Then came two immense gold platters filled with rose water,which were also passed round.These gold vessels were only used by the persons at the head table;the other guests were served with silver cups.

When the dessert and the wine are placed on the table,the herald says,"My Lords,Ladies,and Gentlemen,please to charge your glasses."After we duly charge our glasses the herald cries:

"Lords,Ladies,and Gentlemen,pray silence for the Lord Mayor."He then rises and proposes the first toast,which is,of course,always "The Queen."After a time came the "American Minister,"who was obliged to rise up at my elbow and respond.We got home just after twelve.

And now let me try to give you some faint idea of Audley End,which is by far the most magnificent house I have seen yet.It was built by the Earl of Suffolk,son of the Duke of Norfolk who was beheaded in Elizabeth's reign for high treason,upon the site of an abbey,the lands of which had been granted by the crown to that powerful family.One of the Earls of Suffolk dying without sons,the EARLDOMpassed into another branch and the BARONY and ESTATE of Howard de Walden came into the female line.In course of time,a Lord Howard de Walden dying without a son,his title also passed into another family,but his estate went to his nephew,Lord Braybrooke,the father of the present Lord.Lady Braybrooke is the daughter of the Marquis of Cornwallis,and granddaughter of our American Lord Cornwallis.

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